Most manufacturers rate output at absolute maximums, which is not usable under normal riding conditions.Cycle Electric Inc. rates systems output in “usable DC amps”. We list this at 1000 rpm (idle) and 2500 rpm (cursing). We encourage you to measure the output of different systems to compare. Cycle Electric Inc. Systoms may look like they put out less on paper but the amp meter will tell you a different story.
(See the importance of low speed charge and usable DC amps).

Charging systems do not produce full power at low RPM, some drop off more than others. This can cause battery discharge at low RPM. Better low speed charging system output will help keep the battery fully charged which will improve battery and starter motor life.

Determining which Charging System to use

Adding accessories like lights, high output ignition, or a stereo booster increases amperage usage. It is important to choose a system that will keep up with the demand. If you do not know how may amps your bike is using, do the test described below (determining amperage usage). Then, look in the applications chart and find a system that puts out at least 5 amps more than your amperage usage that fits your model.

1. Determine Amperage Usage.
2 look at the application chart and find a kit that fits your bike and puts out at least 4 amps more at 2500 rpm then your bike uses with the best low speed output

If your electrical system uses more amps then your charging system can put out the voltage will drop causing battery discharge. When this happens it appears that the charging system has failed when in reality it may just be overloaded.

The easiest and fastest way to determine if the charging system is operating satisfactorily is with a volt meter. Connect the volt meter across the battery before starting the bike. A fully charged battery should read 12.7 volts at 72degrees F. Anything less indicates a battery that needs charging or has other problems. Start the bike and allow it to run at a high idle for a minute or two to recharge the battery after starting if electrical stator was used. (Caution: take care not to blue the pipes). Turn on accessories used in normal operation (not turn signals or horn). If you get between 13.8 and 14.8 VDC (depending on model) you can assume the charging system is keeping up (as long as there is not a intermittent problem). If the voltage is too low, do a system output test and compare charging system output to system usage.

We will define usable amps as the amount of DC amps the charging system can deliver while maintaining an acceptable voltage. If voltage drops below 13.8 the battery will not fully charge. By the time voltage drops to 12.7, you are drawing amps out of the battery, so any increase in ampere output after voltage drops to 13.8 will be considered unusable amps. To test system output, you will need a volt meter, an amp meter rated for higher amps then the system rated output, and a load dump. (i.e. carbon pile resistor or other variable load) Connect the volt meter across the battery. Connect the amp meter in series with regulator output (measure amps in wire from regulator to battery). Start motor and allow to warm-up enough to obtain a steady idle. Connect load dump across battery. (Add light bulbs, resistors or whatever your using for a load dump) until the volt meter reads between 13.8 and 13.5. Read amp meter. This is usable low speed amps. Now increase RPM to normal cruising speed (usually between 2500 & 3200 RPM depending on model and riding style) add load until volts drop to 13.8. Read amp meter. This is usable high speed amps. On some systems maximum amps will come at 4500 RPM or higher. Unless you cruise at 95+ DO NOT consider this as usable. USABLE DC AMPS SHOULD BE AT LEAST 1OR 2 AMPS HIGHER THEN SYSTEM LOAD.

Determining Amperage Usage

1. Disconnect your charging system. Put a battery charger on the battery to keep system voltage up.

3. Start engine. and turn on all normal electrical accessories. Read amp meter. Add 2 amps for battery draw.

4. Turn on all accessories. Read meter. Add 2 amps for battery draw. This is maximum usage.

Note: Amperage usage should be at least 2 amps lower then charging system output.

ALTERNATORS

The combination of collar and shim under the rotor sets the location of the rotor. This is important for 2 reasons. To align the magnets with the stator poles and to insure the rotor does not hit the stator primary chain or inner primary on some models.The shims outside the rotor set the location of the compensating sprocket. Adjust outer shims to align primary chain.From 1970 to 1988 all stators used a 1/2” lamination stack. In 1989 the lamination stack was increased to 5/8. To compensate for this the stator mount in the engine case was machined deeper. Some 1995-96 and all 1997 FLT and FLHT models use a 7/8 lamination stack stator. To compensate for this the sprocket shaft spacer (the collar that sticks out from the oil seal) was extended to shift the rotor over. Our application chart uses sure fit combinations. Due to manufacturing tolerance it may be possible to use kits on bikes not listed on the chart. i.e. It is possible to fit a CE-32A on most 1970-83 Big Twins and 1984-88 Softails if proper rotor shimming can be achieved.

Stators are very simple and their problems fall in to two categories: shorts and opens. Shorts can be from winding to winding or from winding to ground. Winding to winding shorts are tested with a AC volt meter from pin to pin on stator plug with the motor running. Check service manual for proper voltage at given rpm. Open stators have no AC voltage output. The best way to test for shorts to ground is with a 12 volt test light. Check from each stator pin to ground. If the light lights the stator is bad, there should not be any continuity from either stator pin to ground. Sometimes an ohms meter will not pick up a short to ground. The light test is better. Measure AC amps between stator and regulator. Shunt drop regulators draw full AC amps all the time and no extra load is needed. If you have a Cycle Electric Inc. or other series pass regulator, it will be necessary to load the DC system to achieve full AC amps. Put a DC volt meter and extra loads across the battery. Add load until battery voltage drops below 13 volts with the motor above 2500 rpm. Read AC meter and compare to service manual specs. Low output indicates a stator or rotor problem. Rotor problems are rare, but sometimes the magnets do get weak or become loose.

GENERATORS

CAUTION!!

Improper gear fitting will cause shaft damage not covered warranty!

The gear should be a press fit on the armature shaft. If you can slide your gear all the way on and off by hand, it is too loose. The inside bore of the large end of the gear should be no larger then .5190. The generator shaft should be .5191 to .5199. This makes a light to moderate press fit
There are a lot of oversized after market gears that fit loose on the shaft. A loose gear will slide and rock back and forth on the shaft. The gear is harder than the shaft. A loose gear will wear out the generator armature shaft. Use original stock gear whenever possible

GEAR INSTALLATION

1. Install oil deflector on shaft. HD # 31035-58

2. Slide gear on shaft with large end toward bearing. The gear should go just far enough to start engagement of splines.

3. Check that splines on gear are lined up with splines on shaft. Install appropriate washer on top of gear depending on model of motor. Install 5/16 24 lock nut on shaft. Hold gear with pliers and tighten nut. This will draw the gear down against the oil deflector. Tighten nut until oil deflector will not spin without gear spinning also.

13 tooth vs. 14 tooth

1936-1957 models used a 14-tooth generator gear. 1958 and up big twins used 13 tooth gears.Sportsters use 14 tooth gears.From 1936 to1957 the gear was held on with a pin. On 1958-up models the gear was held on with a nut. The old gear will fit on the new generator but the nut must be used.

On 1957 and earlier models since gear mesh is adjustable it may be possible (depending on manufacturing tolerance) To use a 13 tooth gear if proper gear mesh can be achieved. This will increase low speed generator output from 2 amps to 6 amps. This is important when using small batteries. See ‘ The importance of low speed charge.

Installing a two brush generator on 1957 and earlier

Set gear mesh on 1936-1957 models

Shimming and strapping from 1936 to 1957 the mesh between generator gear and idler gear was adjustable. To achieve proper gear mesh use paper shims between the generator and cradle on the motor. When proper gear mesh has been achieved (.002 lash at tightest point) snug strap, tighten mounting bolts then tighten strap. On 1958 and up models the gear mesh is set by manufacturing tolerance and is not adjustable. These models have no cradle or strap.

Two methods for installing a two brush generator on 1957 and earlier
1957 and earlier came stock with a three-brush generator. They mount with ¼ 24 bolt and are supported by a cradle and strap. 1958-up models came stock with two brush generators which mount with 5/16 24 bolts.

There are two methods when replacing three brush generators with two brush models.

Drill and Bolt method

The first method is to enlarge the mounting holes in the timing cover to .332 with a letter Q drill. Start from generator gasket surface and drill outward to assure the bolts will line up with the generator. Most people just bolt the generator on and go although the generator should be shimmed to achieve proper gear mesh. Do not use strap unless you shim. (see shimming Gen.)

Heli coil shim and strap method

It is possible to insert ¼ 24 Heli coils directly into the 5/16 24 threads on the later style generator then mount generator with original bolts. When using ¼-mounting bolts be sure to shim and strap. (Do not strap without shimming)

Since the outside of the 1958-up 2 brush generators do not touch anything the outside dimensions are not critical. As per H-D print we are allowed +/-.015 on the diameters and .015 run out on concentricity. This may cause a problem when mounting on 1957 and earlier models that use a exterior cradle to set generator location.When installing a generator on 1957 and earlier model if you add M on the end of the part # we will cut the outside of the generator to insure proper shimming can be achieved. All CYCLE ELECTRIC INC 6 volt and low volt models are made with the M housing. Add H on the end of the part # and Heli coils will be installed.

In this section I will present two output tests. The first is a quick and dirty voltage test. The second is an amperage test which is a better indication of the generator's ability to produce full power. This is the test we use at the factory.

With the generator mounted on the motorcycle or test drive stand and no wires connected to the “A” and “F” terminals, connect the red lead from a voltage meter to the “A” terminal. Connect the black lead to a god clean ground. Set the meter to 20 VDC scale and accelerate to spin the generator shaft 3000 RPM. The generator turns faster than the motor, on sportswear,1.3 times motor rpm, on the Big Twin 1.6 times rpm, Sportsters=2500, Big Twin=2000 for 3000 rpm generator speed. The voltage meter should read a positive 2-4 volts DC. If you get no voltage or a negative voltage, polarize the generator. (See Polarize section) Reversed voltage will be cured by polarizing. After obtain a reading of 2-4 volts positive on the meter leave the meter hooked-up the same and change to a 50 DC volt scale. Use a jumper wire and connect the “F” terminal to ground just long enough to read the meter. It should read a positive 40-50 volts. This shows with an open field circuit you have low voltage. With a closed field the voltage is high. It is the regulators job to keep the voltage at the proper level.

You will need an amp meter capable of reading +/- 30 DC amps and a 1 ohm load. Connect the positive lead of the amp meter to the “A” terminal. Connect the 1 ohm load between the negative side of the meter and ground. Spin generator shaft 3500 rpm, that is about 2800rpm on a sportswear tachometer and 2200 rpm on a Bog Twin. Ground the “F” terminal just long enough to read the meter. It should read positive 18-24 amps. If amperage is low check for other problems.

With motor off connect “F” terminal to ground and momentarily flash the “A” terminal with positive. Remove ground from “F” terminal..

NOTE: If you have properly installed a working regulator it will turn on and ground the “F” terminal.

The DGV-5000 is a complete charging system. We will present two test. The first is a quick and easy voltage test. The second is an amperage test that will better determine the generators ability to produce full power.

With the DGV-5000 mounted on motor and no wires connected to the “B” terminal connect a volt meter red lead to the “B” terminal. Connect the black lead to a good clean ground (you can use the bearing in center of end bell regulator for a ground). Run motor and read meter. Voltage should read as follows.

DGV-5006=8-9 volts DC, DGV-5000=16-17 volts DC, DGV-5000L=15-16 volts DC

The current regulation system on the DGV-5000 is temperature sensitive, so the maximum allowable output changes with temperature. Use the test described in “Determining Usable DC Amps” but test amps immediately with motor cold. At 72 degrees F and a freshly started cold motor you should get 14-15 amps at 2500 RPM. As the generator warms up this will drop off. Cruising at 60 mph on a 80 degree day you can expect 12-13 amps constant.
*The DGV-5000 is polarized at the factory and should not require any further polarization.

Generator light

The generator light compares armature voltage to battery voltage. A two-wire socket must be used. One side gets power from the ignition switch. The other side grounds throw the “A” terminal when armature voltage is lower then battery voltage.Mechanical regulators use a mechanical relay to separate the battery and armature. When charging the relay is closed. The “A” terminal and “B” terminal are the same voltage so no current flows throw the light.Electronic regulators use a diode to separate the armature and battery. Diodes have a forward voltage drop. This means the “A” terminal now runs about one volt higher than the “B” terminal, which will cause the GEN light to glow, vary dimly. This is not a problem but drives some people crazy. To eliminate this problem when replacing mechanical regulators with electronic put a small diode in line between the light and “A” terminal. A 1N-4004 available at radio shack will do the job. Connect with silver band toward the “A” terminal. After connecting put a small tube over diode and fill with silicon for protection. The DGV-5000 light circuit has a built in diode. No exterior diode is necessary

The model 65A generator is rated at 10 amps but is capable of producing 20 to 30 amps. If you draw 20 amps out of a 10-amp generator it will over heat and burn up. Proper current regulation is necessary to prevent generator damage. Use the following test to determine if your regulator properly limits current.

1) Connect an amp meter to measure amps in the wire between the regulator and battery. Connect a voltmeter across the battery.

2) With the motor running, add electric load to the battery to drag the voltage down below 12.5 volts. You can use a battery load tester, carbon pile resister or extra head light bulbs to add load.

3) Accelerate the motor to 3000 RPM. Read the amp meter. It should not exceed 11 amps.

If the regulator allows you to draw more than 11 amps from the generator you run the risk of over heating the armature in your generator.

Note: The Cycle Electric Inc CE-540 regulator has temperature sensitive current limitation circuitry and will put 14 amps at 72 degrees.

We build our products with top quality materials and hold tight tolerance. Our Craftsmen take the time when assembling to assure everything is just right. Each part is fully tested throughout the manufacturing process, then tested again as an assembled unit. All this adds up to one thing-products that work and keep on working.

We take great pride in our work and stand behind our products. Chances are that you will never need to use our excellent warranty, but it is nice to know it is there if you need it.

The Rating Game